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Timely Ramon Valera Tribute

Marina Benipayo is wearing a Rommel Serrano creation in homage to National Artist Ramon Valera during the PARADA NG MGA KASUOTANG FILIPINO (Parade of Filipino Costumes), BAYANG PINAPANGARAP Independence Day Concert at the Metropolitan Theater last June 12, 2022. Photo by Jude Bautista

Written and photographed

By Jude Bautista

Last June 12, 2022, the Independence Day show entitled BAYANG PINAPANGARAP at the posh Metropolitan Theater featured mostly the work of National Artist for music Ryan Cayabyab.

The whole night, however, was a showcase of many National Artists works including the newly announced Fides-Cuyugan-Asencio (OH HOW SWEET ARE THE HOURS IN ONE’S NATIVE LAND – lyrics), to previous awardees like Bien Lumbera (SUGATANG BAYAN- lyrics), Ramon Obusan (Sa saliw ng Balse, Sagayan at Banog-banog – choreography).

Shop to Fly and Fly to Shop with SMAC and Mabuhay Miles (SM Markets)

Marina Benipayo with Arman Ferrer who sang SALAMIN NG BUHAY written and composed by George Canseco, arranged by Ryan Cayabyab. BAYANG PINAPANGARAP Independence Day Concert at the Metropolitan Theater last June 12, 2022. Photo by Jude Bautista

None of them added more glitter to the newly renovated Metropolitan Theater than the tribute to Ramon O. Valera, who has the distinction of being the first National Artist for Fashion Design. Among the most recent batch of National Artists announced less than a week ago included Salvacion Lim-Higgins, only the second one for Fashion Design.

Ramon O. Valera, first National Artist for Fashion was honored with a tribute in BAYANG PINAPANGARAP Independence Day Concert at the Metropolitan Theater last June 12, 2022.

Slowest and Stingiest

This reinforces two things. First, the weight and prestige of the award, having only two Filipinos from the realm of fashion design. Second, is what I often note about the award. The Philippines is possibly the slowest and stingiest country in the world, in recognizing artists. In spite of having a wealth of talent in the arts.

In almost any creative category: fashion, literature, film making, we’ve had our Pinoy artists receive awards and recognition in countries like France, Italy, Spain to Thailand and not even be considered as a National Artist.

Pitoy Moreno is one of many artists who should have been conferred the National Artist award long ago. Photo from Preview.ph : https://www.preview.ph/fashion/pitoy-moreno-s-most-memorable-shows-muses-and-more-a3-20180116-lfrm

Off the top of my head, fashion designer Pitoy Moreno was a shoo in, until his nomination was mired by accusations of politics some years back. Among the admirers of Moreno’s designs: Cory Aquino, King Hussein, Queen Lala of Jordan, King Abdul Halim of Malaysia, John D. Rockefeller III. From Preview.ph article: Pitoy Moreno’s Most Memorable Shows, Muses, and More

Flying high with Pride: First Officer Chezka and the Freedom of Expression

More familiar to the masses, is someone like composer George Canseco who is also NOT a National Artist. Canseco has composed the most iconic Filipino music the past century: KAPANTAY AY LANGIT sung by Pilita Corrales, ANAK lyrics and vocals by Freddie Aguilar.

George Canseco is one of many artists who should have been conferred the National Artist award long ago.

He composed the most recognizable hits of Sharon Cuneta, Basil Valdez, Regine Velsaquez, Zsa Zsa Padilla, Martin Nievera and Kuh Ledesma: KASTILYONG BUHANGIN, PS I LOVE YOU, LANGIS AT TUBIG, AKO AY PILIPINO, NGAYON AT KAILANMAN, GAANO KA DALAS ANG MINSAN, HANGGANG SA DULO NG WALANG HANGGAN, KAILANGAN KITA, dozens of hits way too many to mention.

Easily in any creative field, you can find artists like Pitoy Moreno, George Canseco, more than deserving, with universally recognized works who were not nominated or were rejected.

CANSECO TRIBUTE – Basil, Kuh, Rico, Martin, Zsazsa, Gary , Piolo

Iconic Face

However, the tragedy of slowness and inability to recognize more artists should not hold us back from celebrating the ones who have been conferred the award.

During BAYANG PINAPANGARAP, Valera’s designs were given an homage by designer Rommel Serrano in the PARADA NG MGA KASUOTANG FILIPINO (Parade of Filipino Costumes).

The iconic face of Marina Benipayo, was the star of the fashion segment and her chinita features is as much Filipino nowadays than ever. It’s her elegant, statuesque height that makes her stand out and deserving of the starring role.

Ramon Valera Tribute by designer Rommel Serrano | June 12, 2022

Other models include: Bb Pilipinas 2021 2^nd Runner Up Meiji Cruz, Bb Pillipinas 2021 Candidate Justine Felizarta, Miss Philippines Earth 2021 Candidate Maria Vivien Fabella and Jane Bautista.

From right: Marina Benipayo, Bb Pilipinas 2021 2nd Runner up Meiji Cruz and Miss Philippines Earth 2021 candidate Maria Vivien Fabella, wearing Rommel Serrano creations in homage to National Artist Ramon Valera during the PARADA NG MGA KASUOTANG FILIPINO (Parade of Filipino Costumes), BAYANG PINAPANGARAP Independence Day Concert at the Metropolitan Theater last June 12, 2022. Photo by Jude Bautista

La Aunor

I could imagine Valera, inspired by Marina’s features and height, just as he was by the famous faces of his era: Imelda Cojuangco, Elvira Manahan, Chona Kasten and of course, Imelda Marcos.

Ramon Valera muses from left: Imelda Cojuangco and Chona Kasten (modelling for Sunday magazine of the Manila Chronicle, 1963) from Tatler Asia https://www.tatlerasia.com/style/fashion/the-legacy-of-ramon-valera-the-father-of-philippine-fashion?gallery=true&slide=2&type=carousel

The most definitive article on Ramon Valera was written by Marge Enriquez in 2003 for Tatler Asia. In it was a description of how selective Valera was of his clients:

“If you were a client and told him what to do, he would drop you,” said his niece and former model Pilar Zulueta-Gomez. If the client didn’t fit his ideal, he would show disinterest. Sampaguita Pictures had to persuade him to dress up Nora Aunor. When the petite singer visited him for measurement, he muttered in Spanish, “I thought she was sitting down. I didn’t know she was standing.”

Former First Lady Imelda Marcos with daughter Imee wear Ramon Valera designs in Iran, 1971. Photo from Official Sen. Imee Marcos fb
https://www.facebook.com/ImeeMarcos

Again, there’s an intersection with the current crop of National Artists. Nora Aunor was among them and much deserving for her countless contributions as actress such as in HIMALA. Directed by Ishmael Bernal who is himself National Artist for film. Nora was herself, denied conferment of the award after her nomination during a previous administration. Aunor’s impressive (and popular) body of work spans across film, music and broadcast.

Body of Work

As diminutive as Nora is, she has come to represent the common woman, beautiful, hardworking, comfortable in her own skin. Prior to her actresses, singers, all stars were tall, light skinned with small noses. She was, however, a giant in her abilities and as it turned out in attracting audiences.

One of her many lead roles was in KASTILYONG BUHANGIN with Lito Lapid, directed by the late Mario O’Hara. The movie title is from a song composed by George Canseco, where he also worked as musical director. There are Filipinos whose body of work speak for themselves, qualifying them for the National Artist award. Including Nora Aunor, George Canseco and Mario O’Hara… surprise only one among them has been conferred the award.

Kastilyong Buhangin sung by Nora Aunor

Bb Pilipinas 2021 2nd Runner up Meiji Cruz is wearing a Rommel Serrano creation in homage to National Artist Ramon Valera during the PARADA NG MGA KASUOTANG FILIPINO (Parade of Filipino Costumes), BAYANG PINAPANGARAP Independence Day Concert at the Metropolitan Theater last June 12, 2022. Photo by Jude Bautista

Valera’s Design Stamp

Ramon Valera made his stamp by giving his own creative take on the terno. In the same article by Enriquez:

Valera’s early innovation was modernizing the terno in 1939. He revived the traje de mestiza (what we know as the Maria Clara), traditionally a four-piece ensemble consisting of a blouse, skirt, overskirt, and scarf. He exaggerated the bell sleeves, which were copied by many. Then the terno became a one-piece silhouette, fastened with a zipper instead of hooks. He shocked the public when he removed the panuelo or scarf which covered the woman’s bosom. At first the public thought the style was immodest, but a few political wives, such as Mrs. Claro M Recto and Mrs. Primitivo Lovina, were open-minded enough to show off the new look.

Ramon Valera muses from left: Elvira Manahan and Imelda Marcos. Photo from Tatler Asia https://www.tatlerasia.com/style/fashion/the-legacy-of-ramon-valera-the-father-of-philippine-fashion?gallery=true&slide=2&type=carousel

…No designer like Valera mastered the art of constructing sleeves. In the 1950s Valera reworked the butterfly sleeves of the national costume by using a stiff but hidden built-in support that became the basis of today’s terno. The ternos he created for the annual Kahirup ball became the dominant silhouette the following year. One of the classic designs was a tentlike terno with detachable butterfly sleeves that became an asymmetric neckline gown.

One could see some of Valera’s influence in today’s designers such as Rommel Serrano, who showed his work at the MET.

Miss Philippines Earth 2021 candidate Maria Vivien Fabella is wearing a Rommel Serrano creation in homage to National Artist Ramon Valera during the PARADA NG MGA KASUOTANG FILIPINO (Parade of Filipino Costumes), BAYANG PINAPANGARAP Independence Day Concert at the Metropolitan Theater last June 12, 2022. Photo by Jude Bautista

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